Mosin Information Pages, Video's on setting firing pin protrusion, how to check headspace, the Mosin bolt,
MosinWiki, How to's on cleaning your Mosin, shooting too hight? and much more.
Jolly Green Chopper wrote:Hot Water followed by more hot water through the barrel seems to be the single cheapest and most effective ingredient for cleaning corrosive agents out of any Mosin-Nagant.Many forum members have used it .It may be a bit messy but it works. Read about it here on the forum first.
Once, by accident I picked up the wrong pot and poured two cups worth of good tea down the bore. I was some pissed as it was a cold day and I was looking forward to that tea, had to make another pot. Didn't hurt the rifle any.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
Junk Yard Dog wrote:Once, by accident I picked up the wrong pot and poured two cups worth of good tea down the bore. I was some pissed as it was a cold day and I was looking forward to that tea, had to make another pot. Didn't hurt the rifle any.
Awww heck, I thought you were gonna say the tea tasted great!
When removing cosmoline from the stocks, after first removing all metal parts, I lay the stock up near the fireplace for 20-30 minutes. Get up, wipe off the melted junk with an old cotton T-shirt, turn the stock around and leave it there for another half hour or so. Don't put the stock too close to the flames, but just near enough to warm the wood so the cosmoline will melt.
In an evening or two a great deal of the preservative will come out. It's pretty easy and can be done when watching TV, surfing, or reading the current issue of your favorite magazine.
Of course, this doesn't work so well during the summer months or if you are living in a moderate climate region--but here in Montana we have rather long winters with the fireplace going most of the daylight hours.
rlchemist wrote:Nice thread, I've learned a lot here.
When removing cosmoline from the stocks, after first removing all metal parts, I lay the stock up near the fireplace for 20-30 minutes. Get up, wipe off the melted junk with an old cotton T-shirt, turn the stock around and leave it there for another half hour or so. Don't put the stock too close to the flames, but just near enough to warm the wood so the cosmoline will melt.
In an evening or two a great deal of the preservative will come out. It's pretty easy and can be done when watching TV, surfing, or reading the current issue of your favorite magazine.
Of course, this doesn't work so well during the summer months or if you are living in a moderate climate region--but here in Montana we have rather long winters with the fireplace going most of the daylight hours.
In the Summer months you can wrap the stock in a black plastic garbage bag and leave it out in the Sun. It heats up nicely and the cosmo is held in the garbage bag.
Most of the Mosins I've bought had a very light coat of grease on them and I just used Mineral Spirits to clean it off everything.
First wrap the stock tightly with newspaper, tied with string, and then put it in the plastic bag and set it in the car. The newspaper will absorb the oils as they leech out of the wood.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
I'm getting my first MN in a few weeks, which is also my first gun I've had since a kid (which my dad cleaned back then), so I'm a bit paranoid making sure I'm going to do all the right stuff. JYD and others have given me some advice so far, with this and the above info and the cleaning article I've put together a quick dot point list (based mainly on the cleaning article). I know everyone probably does things a bit different, but I'd be much obliged if someone could give this a quick look and just make sure I'm not making and obvious errors. Also I have 2 remaining questions: I'm assuming the muzzle protector goes on after you've flushed with water and before scrubbing the bore? Also, I was just going to use the original MN cleaning rod/gear that comes with it, using new solutions and patches though of course! Is that acceptable or is it better to use modern gear? Thanks for advice as always!
Initial Clean
- Leave stock wrapped in paper, inside black plastic bag in the sun. Wipe clean.
- Clean with citrus based cleaner, wipe and dry.
- Use toothpick for under bands
- For metal, use Kerosine (If no evidence of painting).
After Firing
- Strip down rifle
- Hot water down bore and receiver
- Spray barrel & receiver with Gun Scrubber, wipe down
- Run 1x patch through
- Spray Gun Scrubber into feeder/interrupter assembly
- Repeat for trigger assembly (optional)
- 1x patch soaked in Gun Scrubber
- Pour generous amount of Gun Scrubber into chamber and scrub with chamber brush
- Scrub area again with chamber brush soaked in Sweets 7.62.
- Wash bolt head with water
- Soak bolt and magazine assembly in a pan filled with solvent
- After soaking, use small Phillips head with patch to clean bolt head
- Squirt bolt head, body, cocking piece and guide again with Gun Scrubber, and clean inside and out
- Ensure metal is dry and not oily/greasy
- Repeat process with magazine assembly
- Coat all with gun oil
- Spray spring and firing pin with Gun Scrubber, wipe dry and coat with gun oil
- Run several patches of Sweet's 7.62 down bore
- If it looks dark, run J&B Bore Paste as directed
This is really great..thanks for the ideas... I will apply it...
"Logic is like a fox knives - those who appeal to it, shall perish by it." Samuel Butler
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
#1 Did you buy any of the GI issue bore cleaner that I linked to off E-Bay?
#2 Which color (white or brown or both) did you get?
3. Which color is preferable to use or are they equal?
I bought a case of the same stuff four years ago, it's darker colored, but not as dark as the smelly stuff in the small cans. It all seems to work the same, some smells stronger than others, it's all very old and probably should be saved for collecting, I don't use it but once a year at most when I shoot away from home.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
I used to have pics of the case, don't know what happened to them, but the case itself is being used for storage out in the shed. The individual cans are in cardboard boxes in each case, I took the boxes out and stored them away were they will not freeze.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
Hmmm...that's different packaging than what I got. Mine all came in a large cardboard box with all the US Government gobbledygook writing on the side. Inside, the cans were packed loose but tightly together so they didn't shift around.
The crates have 72 cans I believe, the boxes 12, there are six boxes per crate, I bought the entire crate.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
If you notice, the cans have a little cosmoline on them to preserve them.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
For the last 20 years or so, I have used a product called FLUID FILM. After a shooting session with corrosive ammo, I give the bore a good sloppy swipe with a patch soaked in FF. Whether I actually get to clean the rifle right away or not is not of utmost importance. Since I started using that stuff, I have never had any trouble with corrosion.
Fluid Film contains lanolin. I know the purists will scoff, but 20 years is a fairly good test. If I give the barrel a good swab without actually cleaning it, I hang a tag stating "Clean before firing". The stuff comes in a spray can.
GOOD RIDDANCE LGR!! If there isn't a gun range in heaven, then I'm going to hell.
Germans who wish to use firearms should join the SS or the SA - ordinary citizens don't need guns, as their having guns doesn't serve the State. Heinrich Himmler
I know that stuff, it's marketed under a variety of names. It's usefull for lubricating hood , door, and trunk locks on cars as well as padlocks, that's what I use it for anyway. It remains sticky on the metal, and is less messy that white grease.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
There seems to be so much here. I am looking for simple video and instructions for initial (coated with cosmoline) dissasembly and cleaning and then routine at the range/after the range cleaning. For some reason I have siple green in my head to be used for initial clean as well. Windex? Where do I start here?
Wipe stock down with paper towels or rags. hot water down the bore for first cleaning and after shooting corrosive ammo followed by hoppes and gun oil. Windex will work if it is a long time before getting from range to home cleaning. If you feel the need to leach the stock then put in black garbage bag with news paper and put in sun for a while, change newspaper as necessary.
