Cleaning your rifle initially and after shooting!

[Whammytap]

Oh, interesting. I'd been letting the Hoppe's soak in with the rifle on the horizontal, but only for a half hour or so. I didn't know you could leave it in for that long. I don't get to shoot my Mosin Nagant very often, but next time I do, I'll try this! And yes, the cleaner was an old U.S. military cleaner in a flask-shaped, olive drab tin container.

[Junk Yard Dog]

You can leave Hoppes in the barrel as long as you want, it will eat copper, but not steel, I leave it in up to three days, any longer and it just dries up. It will continue to eat the copper for as long as it's in there. The military bore cleaner should not be left in there, I do not know the exact ingredients, but water is likely one of them as the cans I have say "protect from freezing"

[warhawk77]

Great info thanks. Image printed a copy of the eds red for my self and a friend. He is picking up his first mosin tonight.

Two questions

If I leave the acetone out it will still work right just not as quick?

So for the water just remove bolt, open magazine, poor hot water into the receiver and let it run out the barrel? How much half gallon do it? That should wash out the salts and then us Ed's red

[desdem12]

I usualy take the stock off but you can doit with it on, just becarful not to get to much on the stock. I use a quart or so. What ever the teapot holds. Don't know about the eds.

[A J]

What are you guys using for gun oil? For years I used Remington Rem Oil but recently switch to a cheaper option: Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil 5W 20. So far, it's working great and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the tiny gun oils. Any downsides to my choice of oil? Thanks.

[Junk Yard Dog]

Any automotive motor oil will work just fine, if too thick you can cut it a bit with lamp oil, or kerosene. The Soviets used that thick non detergent ww2 era motor oil that turned to a solid when cold, they cut it with gasoline, don't do that

[fj95]

Today while I was at one of the local sporting goods stores I was reading the label on a bottle of Hoppes No. 9 and some other solvent that I just cant remember the name of and they said some thing along the lines of can be used for clearing fouling and residue from corrosive primers. Based on the comments here it doesn't sound like it does. Do any of you use a commercial product for cleaning after corrosive primers? Only reason I ask is I want to start shooting surplus but just dont like the water cleaning method Any way any input is appreciated.

[Darryl]

Hoppes has always maintained that their product was good for cleaning after corrosive ammo was used.

I think there may be something in the fact that just about any thing can stop and remove the corrosive salts (wash them away) that are in any primers that are corrosive.

It depends on how much you wish to "trust" any product that it will do it's job. We know water will wash away salts. And we know salts is what causes the corrosion. So eliminate salts and you have no corrosion. Water is one way. Hoppe's is another. I suspect most gun cleaners will work. But.....we know water works. But then so does Windex, Hoppes, boar scrubber, and on and on.

The second part of this is "oil". I don't care what brand. Any good gun oil or even some car oils will stop anything from corrosion.

Clean it and oil it!

D

[fj95]

Thanks for the quick reply, I guess the question is would you trust it. How does the windex work run it down on a patch and jag like any other solvent i guess or spray it down?

[WeldonHunter]

Thanks for the quick reply, I guess the question is would you trust it. How does the windex work run it down on a patch and jag like any other solvent i guess or spray it down?

People use windex because it's mostly water and in a spray bottle. Water from the tap is cheap and when heated evaporates quickly when you're done. Don't be afraid to use this method. Just make sure you continue with a regular cleaning and use of a good gun oil in the bore as a final step.

[Darryl]

It is not the ammonia or anything else in Windex that allows it to clean the corrosive salts. It is simply the water.

However, it is convenient and cheap. And it's my favorite color....blue!

Brake cleaner will work, it just more costly than water or Windex (and more deadly to you and hard on paint and shellac)

Just remember to keep all of this stuff off your wood (stock).

Dolk

[Junk Yard Dog]

Brake cleaner has things in it that can damage you if not used outdoors, it can also harm the black paint that the Soviets put on some refurbs to patch the bluing sins.

[hoshow]

Thanks for the info.

[fj95]

+1 thank you for all of the info, this forum is great for that very accepting and patient with questions . I think I will be picking up a spam can in the near future

[Junk Yard Dog]

The man let his own rifle rust up so he could use it as a dirty rifle in a youtube video.......I don't know what the f***in make of that, but don't look for that in any of my videos! I will watch the rest of that later, just skipped around a bit and caught that little gem of information on the fly.

[desdem12]

No shots of the bore? How are we supposed to tell anything. All he did was get some of the powder out with that one. I just skipped through it too though.

[warhawk77]

I have seen a lot of his videos. When I started learning about guns I picked up a lot for him. But after doing some research on my own I see where he isn't alway right.



I might have missed this before but what size bore brush do you guys use? The .30 cal is the really close right? Or do I need to special order something?

[Junk Yard Dog]

I use brushes made for 8mm Mauser when I can get them, but .30 brushes work, just wear down quicker. I only use the brushes on the dark pitted bores, never my clean ones, non pitted bores get hoppes set in them for a week to clear any buildup, bore brushes cause more bore wear than shooting does.

[warhawk77]

Thanks I was cleaning my type 53 last weekend it still have axle grease or what ever they used. The bore was pretty funky I used the brush, then would run 5-6 patches, check the bore and repeat. I lost count of how many patches I ran but it was a lot.

I'm still not fully happy but I'm thinking I could be clean just dark and need to shoot it some.

I always heard the 7.62 was the same as a 30 cal so that's why I chose it.

R

[Junk Yard Dog]

It's likely a little dark, that's normal with these rifles.