The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

That looks nice, but you haven't even shot the first one yet ....... and another collecting disease is born

Junk Yard Dog wrote:Yes, follow the manufacturers suggested loads, if you do not have a manual, contact Night, or check them online, they will provide you with the information. Safely first.

I've got the manual...they say not to load more than 120 grains max. I was juts wondering about starting with something like 90 to see how she prints. From what I hear about the local hunting the longer shots will only be about 70,80 yards. Lots of trees and hills.

http://www.knightrifles.com/images/P/M9 ... er-kit.jpg


Here's the kit. Its fifty dollars. They have one at gander mountain I think its about the same price.

I don't see why not. Looks good.
Another item that is very nice is a range rod. It will be stronger, and easier to use than the ramrod that comes with the rifle.

I'll look around for one.I think I saw them at bps.

You can quickly spend a good chunk of change for accessories...I can vouch for that. I use an old map bag that I had from my military years as a possibles bag after looking around at what they were priced at said to heck with it and this suits me just fine! I use Pyrodex pellets now, may try loose powder at some point but for as many times as it gets shot a year the pellets make more sense for me. I get the shockwave 246gr saboted bullets for right at .50 each and don't have to worry about leading. Don't forget a short starter, bore butter, breechplug grease (although a lot of people just use bore butter on that as well), cleaning patches (I bought white cotton flannel remnant at walmart and cut 2"x2" patches from it, have enough for like ten years, lol) a lot of people make a small bottle of diluted windex for a quick wipe of the bore if the sabots start getting tight. Obviously some of this is for range time more than hunting, since you'll only be shooting once, right???

Thanks for the info! Yes my plan is to just shoot one st a time! I can buy as many doe tags as I can afford so....one shoot one kill, that's the plan anyway. These knights are supposed to be tack drivers with the right load and bullet.

Never start out with the maximum load in anything, start with the minimum, and work your way up to something that shoots well with the rifle and bullets you are using. Every ML has it's sweet spot, it takes range experimentation to find it. Remember that the listed loads will probably be for real black powder, the substitutes are a bit more powerful so reduce their loads by five percent.

If I use loose powder I can use 90. If I use pellets I'll have to use 100

If you use loose powder you can tailor the charge to whatever you want it to be. You set the powder measure to the charge you want. Remember to stick to FFG in this, FFFG is a smaller grain size intended for pistols and small bore rifles, bot the bigger bores. Never, ever use FFFFG, this is like powder dust and is only used to prime flintlock pans. In a pinch you can use FG, this is course grain powder used in small cannons and big bore muskets like the Brown Bess. Never pour powder into the bore directly from a can or flask, always into a measure, and then dump the measure into the bore. One tiny glowing ember left in that bore from the previous shot and it's all over.

Will do. Got the powder measure just need a flask or something. Any suggestions?

Something I just learned..click on ignition system..

http://www.knightrifles.com/full-plastic-jacket

Dixie Gun Works has basic powder horns, or you can buy one of the larger size brass or copper powder flasks. Check Dixie, they have a good variety of containers to pack powder around in

209 primers will give a nice hot spark.

Go to this site if for nothing else eye candy.
http://www.longrifle.ws/

There is a guy in there under the antiques selling an Austrian M1867 Werndl who has no clue what it is, every fact he listed about it was wrong right down to the name he called it. I ID'd it by the pic of the rotating drum action, hilarious, and he wanted $1400! "Civil War" rifle

Junk Yard Dog wrote:209 primers will give a nice hot spark.

I've been reading about the 209 primers are too hot. Something about extra blow back and carbon fouling. And that the detonation of the primer can actually unseat the sabot or bullet and upset the accuracy before three powder begins to burn. Not sure how much of it is true but alot of people seem to have bought into it and have good results with a less intense form of ignition.

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

Caps have worked well since the 1830's, my experience with the inlines is nothing, all my BP's are more traditional designs and with these there are no options. Best is to find someone who has used the 209's and ask them how it went.

I read that too. I think they are talking about the magnum primers. i'm thinking of trying bh 209 which needs a hot prime.

These days it can sometimes be hard to find primers, but so far shotshell primers have been around in good supply. A thousand primer pack should keep you for a lifetime.